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    • 专利摘要:
    The present invention relates to the use of an extract of Anigozanthos flavidus as an anti-aging agent, especially for reducing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, lifting, smoothing, toning, restructuring or reshaping the skin.
    公开号:FR3057462A1
    申请号:FR1660038
    申请日:2016-10-17
    公开日:2018-04-20
    发明作者:Joan Attia；Martin Peter Shortt；Valerie Begin-Lavallee；Estelle Loing
    申请人:International Flavors and Fragrances Inc；
    IPC主号:
    专利说明:

    (57) The present invention relates to the use of an Anigozanthos flavidus extract as an antiaging agent, in particular for reducing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, lifting, smoothing, toning, restructuring or reshaping the skin.
    FR 3 057 462 - A1
    EXTRACT OF ANIGOZANTHOS FLAVIDUS FOR ITS COSMETIC USE
    Field of the invention
    The present invention relates to the cosmetic field, in particular to anti-aging cosmetic agents.
    Context of the invention
    The skin is the first barrier protecting the body from external aggressions. This organ is made up of several layers of tissue. We distinguish the epidermis which is the outermost part of the skin, the dermis, a connective tissue made up of fibroblasts and an extracellular matrix, which ensures the cohesion and nutrition functions of the skin, and the hypodermis made up fat cells.
    The epidermis is made up of several cellular strata of keratinocytes. We distinguish, among other things, the germinal layer of the epidermis, called the basal layer, containing, in particular, skin stem cells, the spiny layer, Stratum spinosum, consisting of several layers of polygonal cells, the granular layer, Stratum granulosum, comprising one to three layers of flattened cells containing cytoplasmic inclusions, the keratohyaline grains, and finally, the stratum corneum, Stratum corneum which is composed of anucleated cells rich in keratin called comeocytes which correspond to the terminal stage of keratinocyte differentiation.
    The outermost cells of the stratum corneum are continuously removed and replaced by cells of the lower layer, in a process called flaking. Cellular regeneration of the stratum corneum is based on a process of cellular maturation in which the cells of the basal layer of the epidermis differentiate and migrate progressively through the different strata of the epidermis until reaching the stratum corneum under the form of corneocytes.
    Skin aging, whether it results from a normal phenomenon of senescence or whether it is accentuated by an external factor such as exposure to UV radiation, involves dysfunctions in differentiation and / or cell renewal resulting in a atrophy of all the layers of the skin. From a histological point of view, there is, among other things, a decrease in the quality of the dermis, in particular a decrease in the thickness of the epidermis and a loss of consistency of the extracellular matrix. It is thus observed at the level of the extracellular matrix that the collagen fibers become less numerous, and less regular and that the collagen type III ratio on collagen type I is increased. The number of elastic fibers of the papillary dermis is also reduced and the elastic fibers of the reticular dermis are altered. From an aesthetic point of view, these alterations result in a modification of the appearance of the skin and of its mechanical properties: the skin is less smooth, even rough, its microrelief is more marked, and may present fine lines, which may lead over time to the formation of deep wrinkles. The skin also has a loss of elasticity, tone and firmness, which can lead to sagging or sagging tissue and accentuation of wrinkles, particularly in the face and neck. Skin aging can have an impact on the uniformity of the complexion and lead to the appearance of pigment spots.
    There are many anti-aging cosmetic products on the market intended to prevent or attenuate sagging skin.
    Nevertheless, there remains, at present, a need for new anti-aging active agents to prevent or treat alterations resulting from skin aging, in particular linked to sagging skin.
    Summary of the invention
    The invention relates to the cosmetic use of an extract ό. ’Anigozanthos flavidus as an anti-aging agent. In particular, the extract An.Anigozanthos flavidus can be used as an anti-wrinkle agent, smoothing, toning, restructuring or reshaping the skin.
    Typically, the Anigozanthos flavidus extract is present as an active agent in a cosmetic composition intended to prevent, delay and / or treat one or more signs of skin aging. The sign or signs of skin aging can be chosen from the group consisting of: the appearance of fine lines and / or wrinkles on the skin, in particular on the lips and eyelids, wilting or sagging of the skin, in particular on neck level, loss of skin density, loss of skin firmness, loss of skin tone, loss of skin elasticity, loss of skin contractility, sagging skin , an alteration of the smooth appearance of the skin, an increase in the roughness of the skin, and an alteration of the contour of the face.
    The extract & Anigozanthos flavidus can be obtained from an aerial part of Anigozanthus flavidus, for example flowers, leaves, stems and combinations thereof. In certain embodiments, the extract ό. ’Anigozanthos flavidus is obtained by extraction with a polar solvent, preferably hot.
    As mentioned above, the extract & Anigozanthos flavidus may be present as an active ingredient in a cosmetic composition. Said cosmetic composition may comprise at least one additional cosmetic agent, preferably chosen from the group consisting of vitamins, filters and sunscreens, anti-aging or anti-wrinkle agents, antioxidants, lifting agents, firming agents, anti-stain agents, anti-redness agents, slimming agents, draining agents, hydrating agents, soothing agents, exfoliating or exfoliating agents, matting agents, sebum-regulating agents, lightening active agents, self-tanning active agents , tanning accelerators and combinations thereof. In certain embodiments, the cosmetic composition is chosen from the group consisting of aqueous solutions, hydroalcoholic solutions, oil-in-water (O / W) or water-in oil (W / O) or multiple (triple: E / O / W or O / W / O), nanoemulsions, in particular O / W nanoemulsions, the drop size of which is less than 100 nm, aqueous gels, or dispersions of a fatty phase in an aqueous phase to using spherules, suspensions, preferably in aqueous or hydroalcoholic media, suspensions of liposomes, powders, lotions, milks, creams, ointments, gels, mousses, and ointments. The cosmetic composition can be chosen from a cosmetic product, a makeup product or a body hygiene product, for example a lotion, a milk, a serum, an aqueous or oily gel, an emulsion, a cream, in particular a day cream. or a night cream, a gel-cream, a treatment water, an ointment, a balm, a foundation, a spray, an eye shadow, a stick, a lipstick, a gloss, a lip balm , a foam, a deodorant, a nourishing mask, a shower gel, and an exfoliating or exfoliating product.
    The subject of the invention is also a cosmetic composition for use in the prevention or treatment of a sign of aging, said composition comprising an extract & Anigozanthos flavidus, in particular as defined above and one or more excipients acceptable on the pharmaceutical plan. According to a further aspect, the subject of the invention is a "precursor" composition, that is to say a composition intended for the preparation of a cosmetic composition comprising:
    - from 10% to 50%, preferably from 20% to 40% of an Anigozanthos flavidus extract, preferably a liquid extract of Anigozanthos flavidus,
    - from 50% to 90%, preferably from 60% to 80% of a vehicle, preferably chosen from an aqueous solvent, an organic solvent, preferably a lower alcohol such as ethanol, propanediol, butylene glycol , glycerol or isopropanol, a lipophilic agent and mixtures thereof, and
    - optionally, from 0.1 to 30% of an additional excipient acceptable from a cosmetic point of view, preferably chosen from a pH adjusting agent, an antioxidant agent, a preservative agent, a stabilizing agent, a vectoring agent, a thickening agent, emulsifier, hydrophilic or lipophilic gelling agent, perfume, mineral or organic oil, and combinations thereof.
    the percentages being expressed by weight relative to the total weight of said composition.
    By way of example, said composition for the preparation of a cosmetic composition comprises:
    - from 20% to 40% of an aqueous extract of Anigozanthos flavidus, and
    - from 60% to 80% glycerol.
    the weight percentages being expressed relative to the total weight of said composition. The subject of the invention is also a process for preparing a cosmetic composition according to the invention comprising a step of mixing a “precursor” composition according to the invention with one or more excipients on the cosmetic level and / or with a or several additional active ingredients with a cosmetic effect.
    Presentation of the figures
    Figure 1 shows the amount of pro-collagen I expressed as a percentage compared to the Control produced by fibroblasts incubated with TGF-β or with a concentration of 0.1% of the composition called "Extract" (Example 1). The "Extract" composition comprises 5% by weight of an aqueous extract of flowers X Anigozanthos flavidus, less than 35% by weight of water, and more than 50% by weight of glycerin.
    FIG. 2 shows the amount of Tenascin-X expressed as a percentage relative to the control produced by fibroblasts incubated with fetal calf serum (SVF), with a concentration of 0.2% of the composition "Extract" (Extract 0, 2%) and in the presence of a concentration of 0.1% of the composition "Extract" (Extract 0.1%) (Example 2).
    Figures 3A-C present the results relating to the effect of 1 "Extract" on the contractile forces of human background fibroblasts (FR) (Example 4). FIG. 3A shows the evolution of the contractile forces applied by the fibroblasts of FR in the presence of 0.1% (v / v) of the composition "Extract", in the presence of 0.2% (v / v) of the composition "Extract", and in the absence of active (Witness (-)), for 24 hours.
    The histograms of Figure 3B correspond to the areas under curve (AUC) of the curves of Figure 3A. The histograms in Figure 3C correspond to the maximum contraction forces for the curves in Figure 3A.
    FR: Fibroblast FR without active ingredient (negative control), Fibroblast FR incubated in the presence of 0.1% (v / v) of the composition "Extract" (Active 0.1%), and 0.2% (v / v) the “Extract” composition (Active 0.2%)
    FIG. 4 shows the immuno-labeling images of the actin cc-SM fibers at the level of the control background fibroblasts (A), after incubation with 0.2% of "Extract" (B) and after incubation with 0 , 1% of "Extract" (C).
    FIG. 5 shows the variation in the depth of the crow's feet wrinkles of the face treated with a placebo cream (cream A) in comparison with a cream containing the “Extract” at 2% (cream B), after 28 days treatment.
    Description of the invention
    Anigozanthos flavidus is an endemic plant species from the Haemodoraceae family found mainly in southwest Australia. This plant is characterized by a flower, usually yellow or red, the shape of which evokes the leg of a kangaroo. To the knowledge of the Applicant, the XAnigozanthos flavidus extracts have been used in cosmetics, at most, as a conditioning agent, for example, in shampoo compositions. No cosmetic biological activity seems to have been described for the XAnigozanthos flavidus extracts.
    The Applicant has prepared an aqueous extract & Anigozanthos flavidus and has studied the biological activities of this extract.
    Surprisingly, the Applicant has shown that the XAnigozanthos flavidus extract is active on biological targets playing a key role in the organization and composition of the extracellular matrix of the skin. As illustrated in the examples, the extract & Anigozanthos flavidus is capable of stimulating the synthesis of pro-collagen I by the fibroblasts of the dermis and of increasing the synthesis of collagen XVII by the keratinocytes. The Applicant has also shown that the XAnigozanthos flavidus extract is capable of stimulating the synthesis of tenascin-X, a glycoprotein playing a key role in the structure and stability of elastic fibers and in the organization of collagen fibers in the matrix extracellular of the skin. The Anigozanthos flavidus extract also stimulates the synthesis of alpha-actin 2 (also known as alpha smooth muscle actin (α-SMA)) in fibroblasts which has the effect of increasing contractile forces developed by fibroblasts from the bottom of wrinkles.
    The Applicant has also carried out clinical tests aimed at evaluating the anti-aging effects of a day cream comprising 0.6% by weight of an aqueous extract of Anigozanthos flavidus. These tests have shown that the Anigozanthos flavidus extract exerts a tightening-reshaping effect on the face by significantly reducing the depth of wrinkles over the long term.
    In view of these results, the extracts of Anigozanthos flavidus therefore find applications in the cosmetic field as anti-aging agents to prevent or treat the signs of skin aging. Thanks to their actions on the synthesis of several key proteins involved in the organization, cohesion and elasticity of the extracellular matrix of the skin, extracts of Anigozanthos flavidus can be used to promote restructuring and reorganization of the matrix extracellular, in particular, of the dermis in mature or aged skin. In general, the extracts of Anigozanthos flavidus can be used to treat or prevent sagging skin, improve the elasticity of the skin, or even treat or prevent wrinkles and fine lines on the skin. Thus, the Anigozanthos flavidus extracts can be used as tightening or lifting agents or as skin reshaping and restructuring agents. In particular, the extracts of Anigozanthos flavidus can be used as a cosmetic agent to treat or prevent a non-pathological deterioration of the skin linked to a loss of elasticity of the skin and / or a deterioration of the extracellular matrix of the skin, for example a disorganization of the extracellular matrix resulting from a qualitative or quantitative alteration of the constituents of the extracellular matrix such as elastic fibers.
    Uses of the Anigozanthos flavidus extract according to the invention According to a first aspect, the present invention relates to the cosmetic, non-therapeutic use of an Anigozanthos flavidus extract. The Anigozanthos flavidus extract can be used as a cosmetic agent, in particular as an antiaging agent.
    In the context of the present application, an extract of Anigozanthos flavidus refers to an extract obtained from an aerial part of the Anigozanthos flavidus plant such as the leaves, flowers, stems and their combinations. In a particular embodiment, the Anigozanthos flavidus extract is an extract obtained from the flowers and / or stems of Anigozanthos flavidus. The Anigozanthos flavidus extract can be obtained by any known extraction technique. Preferably, the Anigozanthos flavidus extract is prepared by extraction using a polar solvent. Typically, the polar solvent can be chosen from water, an alcohol, an ester, a ketone and their mixtures. Examples of esters that may be mentioned include ethyl acetate, propyl acetate and butyl acetate. Alcohols include, but are not limited to, methanol, ethanol, n-propanol, isopropanol, methanol, and polyols such as glycerol. Examples of ketones that may be mentioned include acetone, cyclohexanone or methyl ethyl ketone.
    In a particular embodiment, the extraction solvent is chosen from water, an alcohol and a hydro-alcoholic mixture, for example a water / ethanol, water / methanol or water / glycerol mixture. In certain particular embodiments, the extraction solvent is water.
    Extraction with the polar solvent can be carried out by any method known to a person skilled in the art, for example by decoction, infusion, maceration, percolation or leaching. For example, extract V Anigozantho s flavidus can be obtained by hot extraction in water or in a hydro-alcoholic mixture. A suitable hot extraction technique is decoction.
    The term “decoction” is understood to mean boiling a plant material in water for a period suitable for obtaining an effective extraction.
    The extraction step can be carried out on a vegetable material VAnigozanthos flavidus having undergone one or more treatments such as freezing, drying, freeze-drying, grinding and combinations thereof. In some embodiments, the extraction is carried out on a fresh or dried vegetable material having undergone a grinding step. At the end of the extraction, the extract can be recovered by any method making it possible to separate the plant material and the liquid phase, for example by centrifugation and / or filtration.
    By way of example, the extract VAnigozanthos flavidus can be obtained by a process comprising:
    A step of preparing a plant matrix by drying and grinding an aerial part, typically flowers and stems, V Anigozanthos flavidus a step of extracting the plant material by a polar solvent, typically water or a mixture hydroalcoholic, preferably hot, for example by decoction, and a step of removing the solid plant matrix, preferably by filtration.
    The process for preparing the VAnigozanthos flavidus extract may comprise one or more additional steps at the end of the extraction and / or filtration step. The method may comprise a step of formulating the extract, for example by adding an agent for adjusting the pH, a stabilizing agent and / or a cosmetically acceptable vehicle or support, a step of concentrating the extract, or a step of drying the extract.
    In an additional or alternative embodiment, the Anigozanthos flavidus extract includes flavonoids, polyphenols and carbohydrates. The flavonoids can represent from 1% to 8%, for example 2% to 8%, in naringin equivalence relative to the dry matter of the extract; the polyphenols can represent from 10% to 30%, for example from 15% to 20%, in chlorogenic acid equivalence by weight relative to the dry matter of the extract; and the sugars can represent from 35% to 55%, for example from 40% to 50%, in glucose equivalent by weight relative to the dry matter of the extract. The contents of polyphenols, flavonoids and sugars are determined by colorimetry using a standard range obtained from chlorogenic acid (Folin-Ciocalteu method), naringenin (Method from Zhishen et al., Food Chemistry, 1999, 64, 555-559) and glucose (Method of Bachelier et al., Cah. OSTRLM.sér. Pedol. Vo. IV, 3-1966) respectively. The Anigozanthos flavidus extract obtained at the end of the extraction process can comprise a dry matter content ranging from 0.1% to 40% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 10% by weight, per example from 0.1% to 4% by weight.
    In certain embodiments, the Anigozanthos flavidus extract comprises less than 1% by weight of ferulic acid relative to the dry matter of the extract. Preferably, the extract of Anigozanthos flavidus is devoid of ferulic acid.
    In the uses according to the invention, the extract of Anigozantho s flavidus can be in liquid form, for example in water or in a hydroalcoholic mixture such as a water / glycerol mixture. In other embodiments, the extract of Anigozantho s flavidus can be in dry solid form, typically in the form of a powder. The dry extract of Anigozanthos flavidus can be obtained by eliminating the extraction solvent by any known technique, for example by atomization, evaporation or lyophilization.
    As an additional example, the Anigozanthos flavidus extract can be in a form absorbed on a solid vehicle such as maltodextrin.
    In certain embodiments, the Anigozanthos flavidus extract is a liquid extract in water or in a hydroalcoholic mixture, preferably in a water / glycerin mixture. Said hydroalcoholic mixture can have a water / alcohol volume ratio ranging from 1/9 to 9/1, preferably from 1/9 to 2/1.
    Within the meaning of the invention, the term "antiaging agent" means an active cosmetic agent having a biological activity making it possible to prevent or treat a sign of skin aging.
    By "preventing a sign of skin aging" is meant delaying or preventing the appearance of the sign of skin aging.
    By "treating a sign of skin aging" is meant reducing, attenuating, blurring, correcting or slowing down the development of the sign of skin aging.
    “A sign of skin aging” is understood to mean any alteration or modification of the visual appearance or of the mechanical properties of the skin, non-pathological, resulting from aging, whether chronological (chrono-aging) and / or of the photo. -induced (photo-aging). A sign of skin aging therefore refers to a non-pathological alteration or modification of the appearance or mechanical properties of the skin.
    Thus, the signs of aging include, but are not limited to, thinning of the skin, in particular of the epidermis, the appearance of a microrelief, the appearance of fine lines and / or wrinkles on the skin, including at the level of the lips and the eyelids, wilting or sagging of the skin, loss of radiance of the skin, blurred complexion, pigmentation marks on the skin, dark circles around the eyes, loss of density of the skin, loss of skin firmness, loss of skin tone, loss of skin contractility, loss of skin elasticity, alteration of the smooth appearance of the skin, increased roughness of skin and altered facial contour. Within the meaning of the invention, the terms “skin” and “cutaneous” refer to any part of the skin of the human body, in particular the skin of the face, including the lips and the eyelids, the neck, and the skin of the hands.
    As presented above, the Anigozanthos flavidus extract is capable of promoting the synthesis of various key proteins involved in the structure of the extracellular matrix and in the elasticity of the skin.
    Thus, the extract of Anigozanthos flavidus can be used to improve, restore, or prevent the deterioration of the mechanical properties of the skin, in particular the suppleness, elasticity, firmness or tone of the skin. For example, the extract of Anigozanthos flavidus can be used to improve, restore, or prevent the deterioration of the mechanical properties of mature or aged skin.
    "Mature skin" means the skin of a man or woman over the age of 40 who has lost elasticity due to aging.
    In a particular embodiment, the extract according to the invention is used to treat or prevent a sign of skin aging associated with an alteration of the mechanical properties of the skin, in particular a loss of elasticity of the skin. The Anigozanthos flavidus extract can thus be used as a smoothing, smoothing, lifting or lifting agent, restructuring or reshaping the skin.
    “Smoothing or smoothing agent” is understood to mean a cosmetic agent capable of attenuating and / or correcting the microrelief of the skin, including the lips, said microrelief being in the form of wrinkles or fine lines.
    The term "lifting or lifting agent" means a cosmetic agent capable of exerting a tensor action on the skin, by which the appearance of the skin is improved and wrinkles less visible. The term "skin reshaping agent" means an agent capable of attenuating the irregular appearance of the skin following a loss of elasticity or sagging skin, in particular at the level of the contour of the face and the neck.
    The term "lifting agent" means a cosmetic agent capable of exerting a tightening effect on the skin so as to blur the microrelief of the skin.
    The term “restructuring agent” means a cosmetic agent capable of preventing or treating a deterioration of the extracellular matrix of the skin resulting from aging, such as a loss or a deterioration of the elastic fibers of the extracellular matrix or else a loss or a deterioration collagen from the extracellular matrix.
    By way of example, the Anigozanthos flavidus extract can be used to prevent or treat the appearance of fine lines and / or wrinkles on the skin, in particular on the lips and eyelids, cutaneous wilting, for example sagging or sagging skin, loss of skin density, loss of skin firmness, loss of skin tone, loss of skin elasticity, sagging skin , an alteration of the smooth appearance of the skin, an increase in the roughness of the skin, and an alteration of the contour of the face. The Anigozanthos flavidus extract can also be used to make a mature or aged skin look younger and / or improve the complexion or radiance of mature or aged skin.
    The extract of Anigozanthos flavidus can be used for cosmetic purposes to restructure or reorganize the extracellular matrix of the skin altered due to aging. In particular, the Anigozanthos flavidus extract can be used for cosmetic purposes to stimulate the synthesis of a protein involved in the organization of the skin's extracellular matrix. The term “protein involved in the organization of the extracellular matrix of the skin” means a protein constituting the extracellular matrix, such as collagens, elastin or fibrillin, or a protein involved in the expression or in the organization of the proteins constituting the extracellular matrix such as tenascin-X. In certain embodiments, the Anigozanthos flavidus extract is used as a cosmetic agent to stimulate the synthesis of a protein chosen from pro-collagen I, collagen XVII, and tenascin-X at the level of skin, preferably on mature skin. In another embodiment, the extract WAnigozanthos flavidus is used as a cosmetic agent to increase the contractile forces of dermal fibroblasts from mature or aged skin. In another embodiment, the WAnigozanthos flavidus extract is used to stimulate the metabolism of the dermis.
    In certain embodiments, the WAnigozanthos flavidus extract is used in combination with an active agent with cosmetic effect. Such agents are described below and include, among others, anti-wrinkle agents, anti-aging agents, antioxidants, hydrating agents, lifting agents, and firming agents.
    In the uses according to the invention, the WAnigozanthos flavidus extract is applied to the skin. Said extract is preferably present as a cosmetic agent in a composition intended to be applied to the skin. Said composition is typically a cosmetic composition. The extract of Anigozanthos flavidus generally represents from 0.0001% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.001% to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.005% to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of said cosmetic composition. By way of example, the WAnigozanthos flavidus extract can represent from 0.01% to 3.0% by weight, for example 0.6% by weight of the cosmetic composition. The WAnigozanthos flavidus extract can be added to the cosmetic composition in the form of a liquid extract, in the form of a dry extract or also in the form of a “precursor” composition as described later in the present description. .
    Said cosmetic composition may comprise one or more cosmetically acceptable excipients and optionally one or more additional active ingredients with cosmetic effect. Typically, said cosmetic composition comprises:
    from 0.0001% to 10% of extract & Anigozanthos flavidus, from 0% to 20% of one or more additional active agents, and from 70% to 99.9999% of one or more cosmetically acceptable excipients , the percentages being expressed by weight relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
    In certain embodiments, said cosmetic composition comprises from 0.001% to 5% by weight of WAnigozanthos flavidus extract, from 0.001% to 10% of one or more additional active agents, and from 85% to 99.998% of one or more several cosmetically acceptable excipients. In other embodiments, said cosmetic composition comprises:
    from 0.01% to 5% by weight of extract of 'Anigozanthos flavidus, from 0.01% to 10% of one or more additional active agents, and from 85% to 99.98% of one or more excipients cosmetically acceptable.
    The Anigozanthos flavidus extract is preferably present in liquid form.
    In a complementary or alternative embodiment, the cosmetic composition comprises from 0.001% to 10%, for example from 0.005% to 1% or also from 0.005% to 0.5% by weight of dry matter obtained from the extract Anigozanthos flavidus.
    The term "active ingredient with cosmetic effect, active agent with cosmetic effect, cosmetic agent or active agent with cosmetic effect" means a compound capable of exerting at least one cosmetic effect on the skin or its annexes. The term “cosmetic effect” means any non-therapeutic effect aimed at modifying and / or improving the appearance of the skin or mucous membranes such as the lips, protecting them from external aggressions (sun, wind, humidity, dryness, chemicals), or still to prevent and / or correct the phenomena linked to their aging. Thus, in certain embodiments, the extract of Anigozanthos flavidus can be present in a cosmetic composition which also comprises an additional active principle with cosmetic effect. This active ingredient with a cosmetic effect can be chosen from the group consisting of vitamins, filters and sunscreens, anti-aging agents, anti-redness agents, antioxidants, firming agents, hydrating agents, soothing agents, exfoliating or exfoliating agents. , mattifying agents, sebum-regulating agents, lightening active agents, anti-stain active agents, slimming agents, draining agents, self-tanning active agents, tanning accelerators and combinations thereof. In particular, the cosmetic composition can comprise tocopherols, and / or plant extracts such as linseed extracts, exopolysaccharides from Vibrio, peptides such as trifluoroacetyl tripeptide-2.
    Preferably, the cosmetic composition may comprise an active agent chosen from an anti-wrinkle agent, an anti-redness agent, an antioxidant agent, a hydrating active agent, a soothing agent, a sebum-regulating agent, an anti-stain agent, a filter or a sunscreen, and combinations thereof. Even more preferably, the active agent with additional cosmetic effect is chosen from an anti-wrinkle agent, an antioxidant agent, a hydrating agent, a firming agent and their combinations.
    By way of example of hydrating agents, mention may be made of urea, pidolic acid (PCA) and its derivatives, in particular its salts such as arginine PCA, chitosan PCA, its copper salts (copper PCA) , magnesium (magnesium PCA), sodium (sodium PCA) or zinc, ethylhexyl PCA, calcium gluconate, hyaluronic acid and its salts and other glycosaminoglycans, frucose, glucose, isomaltose, lactose, trehalose, polydextrose, sucrose (Sucrose), maltitol, mannitol, sorbitol, xylitol and other carbohydrates and derivatives, polyethylene glycols such as PEG-7, PEG-8, PEG- 10, PEG-12 or PEG-14, glycerin, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, labetaine, citrulline, collagen and its derivatives, Phistidine, silk, keratin or soybean hydrolysates, rich plant extracts into polysaccharides and / or polyphenols, for example extracts of Aloe, blueberry (Centaurea cyanus), and combinations thereof.
    By way of example of anti-aging agents, mention may be made of ascorbic acid and its derivatives such as magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, glycosaminoglycans and their derivatives, Cyathea polysaccharides, collagen, linseed extracts (Linum usitatissimum), peptides like Caprooyl-Tetrapeptide-3 and trifluoroacetyl tripeptide-2, extracts of Polygonum aviculare, extracts of brown algae, in particular of Ascophyllum nodosum, extracts of ferns, in particular of Cyathea Cumingii.
    By way of example of soothing agents, mention may be made of allantoin, extracts of aloes, of birch (for example Betula albay of fireweed (Epilobium anguslifoliumy of chestnut (for example Castenea sativa), of blueberry (for example Centaurea cyanus). Centella (eg Centella asiaticd), horsetail (eg Equisetum arvense). Fennel (eg Foeniculum vulgare), witch hazel (eg Hamamelis virginiana). Ivy (eg Hedera helix), Chabiscus sabdariffa, lily (eg Liliurn candidum), mallow (eg Malva sylvestris), lemon balm (eg Melissa officinalis), skullcap (eg Scutellaria baicalensis), mimosa (eg Mimosa tenuiflora), potentilla (e.g. Potentilla erecta), an oligosaccharide extract or an oligosaccharide, e.g. of flax, peptides like palmitoyl tripeptide-8, and combinations thereof.
    As an example of antioxidant agents, mention may be made of HMR (hydroxy methyl resorcinol), ascorbic acid and its derivatives, vitamin B9, histidine hydrochloride, or an willowherb extract (Epilobium augustifolium). The active ingredients with antioxidant and vitamin-like effects are generally used in a mass percentage of at least 1% relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
    By way of example of seboregulating agents, mention may be made of flax lignans, rice powder, zinc gluconate, sarcosine, an extract of Cinnamomum zeylanicum bark, an avocado extract and combinations thereof. .
    As anti-redness agents, there may be mentioned saponins, flavonoids, ruscogenins, esculosides, and extracts containing them, for example extracts of Ruscus, as well as certain essential oils, for example lavender or rosemary .
    By way of example of anti-stain agents, there may be mentioned extracts such as licorice (Glycyrrhyza glabra), jackfruit extract (Artocarpus heterophyllus), Rumex extract (R.occidenlalisp plant extracts belonging to the genus citrus, resveratrol, peptides like oligopeptide-68, nonapeptide-1, kojic acid, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate and combinations thereof.
    The cosmetically acceptable excipient (s) present in the cosmetic composition can be chosen from diluents, dispersing agents, gelling agents, emollients, vectoring agents such as polycationic polymers or phospholipids, gums, resins , solvents in particular lower alcohols, in particular ethanol, isopropanol, dipropylene glycol, butylene glycol, propanediol, glycerin, sorbitol, and propylene glycol, fillers such as modified and polymerized starches, titanium dioxide, or a metal stearate, preservatives, essential oils, pearlescent agents, dyes, odor absorbers, pH regulating agents or neutralizing agents, lubricating agents, thickening agents, tensio- active agents including anionic, cationic, amphoteric or nonionic surfactants, humectants, wetting agents, dispersing agents, perfumes ums, organic or even mineral pigments such as iron oxides, oily agents such as oils or fats of vegetable origin, fats of animal origin, synthetic oils such as petrolatum, silicone oils (cyclomethicone) , fatty alcohol esters, fluorinated oils, waxes, modified clays, bentones, metal salts of fatty acids, silica, polyethylenes, mica, preservatives, antimicrobial agents, vehicles such as mineral, thermal or floral water, and / or other substances commonly used in formulation in the cosmetic or pharmaceutical field.
    XAnigozanthos flavidus extract can be incorporated into any type of cosmetic composition. Preferably, it is a cosmetic composition having a form suitable for topical administration, in particular suitable for application to the skin. Said cosmetic composition can be in the form of aqueous, hydroalcoholic solutions, oil-in-water (O / W) or water-in oil (W / O) or multiple (triple: W / O / W or H / W / O), nanoemulsions, in particular O / W nanoemulsions, the drop size of which is less than 100 nm, of aqueous gels, of dispersions or of a powder. The cosmetic composition according to the invention may be in the form of a lotion, a milk, a cream, an ointment, a gel, a foam, a solution, an ointment. More generally, the composition according to the invention can also be in the form of a cosmetic product of any type. It can be a cosmetic treatment or a make-up or personal hygiene product, for example a lotion, a milk, a serum, an aqueous or oily gel, an emulsion, a cream, a gel-cream. , a treatment water, an ointment, a balm, a foundation, a spray, an eye shadow, a stick, a lipstick, a gloss, a foam, a deodorant, a nourishing mask, a shower gel, and an exfoliating or exfoliating product. By way of illustration and without limitation, the X Anigozanthos flavidus extract may be present as an antiaging agent, lifting or reshaping in a day cream intended for mature or aged skin. The extract X Anigozanthos flavidus may be present as an antiaging agent in a regenerating serum intended for the face or the neck. As an additional example, the XAnigozanthos flavidus extract may be present as a smoothing or reshaping active ingredient in a care cream for the hands, neck or bust.
    In certain embodiments, the extract & Anigozanthos flavidus is present in the cosmetic composition in combination with a vectoring agent. In some embodiments, the & Anigozanthos flavidus extract is formulated, using a vectorization system. The vectorization system can be chosen from the group consisting of micelles, liposomes, including unilamellar or multilamellar liposomes, niosomes, ethosomes, lamellar systems, nanosomes, lipid or polymeric vesicles, nanospheres, micro or nanoparticles of natural polymers or not, hydrogels. Preferably, the XAnigozanthos flavidus extract is encapsulated in a vectorization system chosen from liposomes and lamellar systems. Particular examples of liposomes and lamellar systems for the implementation of the present invention are described, inter alia, in French patent applications No. 1358589 and No. 1262303.
    An additional object according to the invention is a cosmetic method for treating or preventing a sign of skin aging in an individual, comprising the administration of a cosmetically effective amount of the extract XAnigozanthos flavidus, preferably topically, to said individual. The XAnigozanthos flavidus extract is typically applied to the skin to be treated, for example on the face, neck or hands. Preferably, the extract & Anigozanthos flavidus is present in a cosmetic composition as described above, and is therefore applied in the form of a cosmetic composition, for example in the form of a cream. As mentioned above, the sign of skin aging can result from an alteration of the mechanical properties of the skin, in particular a loss of elasticity of the skin. Preferably, the cosmetic process according to the invention aims to treat or prevent a sign of skin aging chosen from the appearance of fine lines and / or wrinkles, pigmentation spots on the skin, skin wilting, sagging or sagging skin, loss of skin density, loss of skin firmness, loss of skin tone, loss of skin elasticity, sagging skin, alteration of the smooth appearance of skin, increased roughness of the skin, altered facial contour and combinations thereof.
    Another object according to the invention is a cosmetic process for reorganizing or restructuring the extracellular matrix of the skin and / or for stimulating the synthesis of a protein chosen from pro-collagen I, collagen XVII, and tenascin-X at skin level, preferably in mature skin, and / or to increase the contractile forces of dermal fibroblasts of mature skin, said method comprising the administration of a cosmetically effective amount of extract X Anigozanthos flavidus, preferably topically, to said individual. In another embodiment, the & Anigozanthos flavidus extract is used to stimulate the metabolism of the dermis or to reorganize or restructure the dermis.
    In the cosmetic methods and uses according to the invention, the dose to be administered and the frequency of administration of the extract X Anigozanthos flavidus vary according to the cosmetic effect sought, the characteristics of the individual, in particular his sex , age and skin type. Typically, the extract & Anigozanthos flavidus can be applied, to the area to be treated, once or twice a day, typically in the morning and / or in the evening, for several consecutive weeks or even several months, for example at least for 3 months. For example, to obtain an antiaging effect on the face, the patient can apply a dose of 1 g to 2 g of cosmetic composition at 0.1% by weight of extract X Anigozanthos flavidus on his face, morning and evening.
    The individual can be a woman or a man. Preferably, the individual is a woman over the age of 30, particularly over the age of 45.
    Additional objects according to the invention
    According to an additional aspect, the invention also relates to a cosmetic composition comprising an extract of Anigozanthos flavidus. Typically, said cosmetic composition comprises:
    from 0.0001% to 10% of Anigozanthos flavidus extract, from 0% to 20% of one or more additional active agents, and from 70% to 99.9999% of one or more excipients acceptable on the plan cosmetic, the percentages being expressed by weight relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
    In certain embodiments, said cosmetic composition comprises from 0.001% to 5% by weight of extract of Anigozanthos flavidus, from 0.001% to 10% of one or more additional active agents, and from 85% to 99.998% of one or more cosmetically acceptable excipients.
    In other embodiments, said cosmetic composition comprises: from 0.01% to 5% by weight of Anigozanthos flavidus extract, from 0.01% to 10% of one or more additional active agents, and 85% to 99.98% of one or more cosmetically acceptable excipients.
    It goes without saying that the extract, the additional active agents and the pharmaceutically acceptable excipients are as described above. Likewise, the cosmetic composition can be of any type, as explained above.
    In particular, the extract of Anigozanthos flavidus can be in the form of a liquid extract. In a complementary or alternative embodiment, the cosmetic composition comprises from 0.001% to 10%, for example from 0.005% to 1% by weight of dry matter obtained from the extract of Anigozanthos flavidus.
    According to a further aspect, the invention relates to a composition intended to be incorporated into a cosmetic composition. This composition therefore corresponds to a “precursor” composition.
    Preferably, this composition for the preparation of a cosmetic composition comprises:
    from 10% to 50%, preferably from 20% to 40% of an Anigozanthos flavidus extract, from 50% to 90%, preferably from 60% to 80% of a vehicle, preferably chosen from a solvent aqueous, an organic solvent, preferably a lower alcohol such as ethanol, propanediol, butylene glycol, glycerin or isopropanol, a lipophilic agent and their mixtures, and optionally from 0.01 to 30% d '' a cosmetically acceptable additional excipient, preferably chosen from a pH adjuster, a buffering agent, a vectoring agent, an antioxidant agent, a vectorizing agent, a preservative, a stabilizing agent, a thickening agent, an emulsifier , a hydrophilic or lipophilic gelling agent, a perfume, a mineral or organic oil, and their combinations.
    the percentages being expressed by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
    It goes without saying that the extract & Anigozanthos flavidus can be as described above. For example, the & Anigozanthos flavidus extract can be an extract capable of being obtained from an aerial part of Anigozanthos flavidus by extraction with a polar solvent. In certain embodiments, the extract of Anigozanthos flavidus is a liquid extract, for example in water or in a hydro-alcoholic mixture such as a water / glycerol mixture.
    In a particular embodiment, the composition for the preparation of a cosmetic composition comprises:
    from 20% to 40% of an aqueous extract of Anigozanthos flavidus, and from 60% to 80% of glycerol, the percentages being expressed by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
    The "precursor" composition may further comprise a buffering agent or a pH adjusting agent such as citric acid. Typically, the “precursor” composition according to the invention has a pH of between 3.0 and 4.5, typically around 3.9.
    In a complementary or alternative embodiment, the “precursor” composition comprises from 0.01% to 10%, for example from 0.05% to 5% by weight or also from 0.1% to 1% by weight of material dry from Anigozanthos flavidus extract.
    The present invention also relates to the use of said “precursor” composition for the preparation of a cosmetic composition. It goes without saying that said final cosmetic or pharmaceutical composition is particularly suitable for the implementation of any of the cosmetic uses according to the invention, and may have any of the characteristics described above.
    The “precursor” composition may be present in the cosmetic composition up to 0.001% to 50%, preferably from 0.01% to 10% by weight, for example from 0.5% to 5% or even 1.5 % to 2.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the final cosmetic or pharmaceutical composition.
    Said cosmetic composition can be obtained by mixing a “precursor” composition according to the invention with one or more cosmetic excipients and / or with one or more additional active agents with cosmetic effect.
    An additional object according to the invention is a method for preparing a cosmetic composition according to the invention comprising a step in which an Anigozanthos flavidus extract or the “precursor” composition is mixed with one or more cosmetically acceptable excipients and / or with one or more active ingredients with cosmetic effect.
    The subject of the invention is also a method of preparing a "precursor" composition according to the invention comprising:
    a) The supply of a plant matrix ό. ’Anigozanthos flavidus preferably from an aerial part & Anigozanthos flavidus by drying and grinding
    b) Extraction of the plant matrix with a polar solvent followed by a filtration step so as to obtain a liquid extract,
    c) The addition of a cosmetically acceptable vehicle in the liquid extract resulting from filtration,
    d) Optionally, the addition of a cosmetically acceptable excipient in the filtrate,
    e) Optionally, a pH adjustment step,
    Steps c), d) and e) can be carried out in any order.
    In some embodiments, the cosmetically acceptable vehicle comprises glycerin and / or water.
    The extraction step can be carried out as described above, for example using water or a hydroalcoholic mixture as a polar solvent.
    Other aspects and advantages of the present invention will appear on reading the examples which follow, which should be considered as illustrative and in no way as limiting.
    EXAMPLES
    The Examples which follow were produced with a composition hereinafter called "Extract", said composition "Extract" comprising:
    % by weight of an aqueous extract of flowers and stems of Anigozanthos flavidus to about 1.6% by weight of dry matter, and 70% by weight of glycerin.
    It is a “precursor” composition within the meaning of the invention.
    EXAMPLE 1 Effect of an Anigozanthos flavidus Extract on the Synthesis of Procollagen I by Human Dermal Fibroblasts
    Context
    Collagens constitute a family of proteins strongly involved in the mechanical properties of the skin. Pro-collagen I is the precursor of type I collagen, which is a major constituent of connective tissue. With age, the collagen content in the skin decreases, which leads to the formation of wrinkles or fine lines on the skin.
    The purpose of this study was to determine the effects of an Anigozanthos flavidus extract on the synthesis of pro-collagen by fibroblasts in the human dermis.
    Protocol
    The composition "Extract" was tested at the following concentrations 0.1% and 0.05% (v / v). TGL-β was chosen as a positive control and tested at 10 ng / ml. The negative control corresponds to cells not treated with the “Extract” composition or ΤΰΕβ.
    The fibroblasts were isolated from human dermis and maintained in a specific DMEM culture medium supplemented with 10% fetal calf serum, 1% antibiotics (penicillin / streptomycin) and 1% L-glutamine, at 37 0 C, under 5% CO2 and 95% humidity.
    2.5 x 10 4 cells were seeded per microplate well, in a complete DMEM medium. The cells were placed in an incubator for 24 hours. The culture medium was then replaced with DMEM without serum. The microplates were left for an additional 24 hours in an incubator to achieve cell quiescence.
    The composition "Extract" or TGL-β were added at the desired concentration. The microplates were incubated for an additional 24 hours. At the end of the incubation, the supernatants were removed and analyzed by ELISA (MK101Z, OZYME) in order to quantify the pro-collagen I.
    Result
    The results obtained are illustrated in FIG. L FIG. 1 shows the percentage of activation of the synthesis of pro-collagen I in the treated cells compared to the untreated cells.
    The fibroblasts treated with the “Extract” composition or TGF3 produced a greater quantity of pro-collagen I than the untreated cells. Effect of the composition "Extract" on the synthesis of collagen I is dose-dependent. Anigozanthus flavidus extract therefore stimulates the synthesis of pro-collagen I in fibroblasts of the dermis.
    EXAMPLE 2 Effect of an Anigozanthos flavidus Extract on the Synthesis of Tenascin X by Human Dermal Fibroblasts
    Tenascin-X is a protein that regulates both the structure and the stability of elastic fibers in the extracellular matrix (ECM). It also participates in the organization of collagen fibers. Fa tenascin-X plays a key role in the rigidity and elasticity of connective tissue. An inherited deficiency in tenascin-X can lead to a genetic condition called Ehlers-Danlos syndrome.
    The aim of this study was to determine the effect of the composition "Extract" on the synthesis of tenascin-X by fibroblasts of the human dermis.
    Protocol
    The composition "Extract" was tested at 0.2% and 0.1% (v / v). Fe 10% fetal calf serum was used as a positive control. Fe negative control corresponds to cells not treated with the Extract or with fetal calf serum.
    The fibroblasts were isolated from human abdominal dermis and maintained in a specific DMEM culture medium supplemented with 10% fetal calf serum, 1% antibiotics (penicillin / streptomycin) and 1% F-glutamine, at 37 0 C, under 5% CO2 and 95% humidity.
    2.5 x 10 4 cells were seeded per microplate well, in a complete DMEM medium. The cells were placed in an incubator for 24 hours. The culture medium was then replaced with DMEM without serum. The microplates were left for an additional 24 hours in an incubator to achieve cell quiescence.
    The composition "Extract" or fetal calf serum were added at the desired concentration. After the addition, the cells were incubated for an additional 24 hours. At the end of the incubation, the supernatants were removed and analyzed by ELIS A in order to quantify the tenascin-X. At the same time, after the incubation, the proteins contained in the cell lysates were quantified by the Bradford method.
    Results
    The results obtained were subjected to a Student-t test for a p-value <0.05. The results are presented in Figure 2. Figure 2 shows for each experimental condition the amount of tenascin-X present in the medium, expressed as a percentage relative to the total amount of proteins. It is noted that the composition “Extract” induces a dose-dependent increase in the amount of tenascin-X, compared to the negative control (untreated cell). In other words, the Anigozanthos flavidus extract stimulates the synthesis of tenascin-X in human fibroblasts.
    EXAMPLE 3 Effect of an Anigozanthos flavidus extract on the synthesis of collagen XVII human keratinocytes
    Collagen XVII is a transmembrane protein that plays an essential role in maintaining the connection between intracellular and extracellular elements involved in the adhesion of the epidermis.
    The aim of this study was to determine the effect of the composition "Extract" on the synthesis of collagen XVII by human keratinocytes.
    Protocol
    The composition "Extract" was tested at a concentration of 0.4% (v / v). TGF-β was chosen as a positive control and tested at 10 ng / ml. The negative control corresponds to cells not treated with the Extract or TGF-β.
    The keratinocytes were isolated from a human epithelial cell line and cultured in DMEM supplemented with 10% fetal calf serum, 1% antibiotics (penicillin / streptomycin) and 1% L-glutamine, 37 ° C, under 5% CO2 and 95% humidity.
    x 10 4 cells were seeded by microplate well, in complete DMEM medium and left in an incubator for 24 hours. The culture medium was then replaced with DMEM comprising 1% fetal calf serum, 1% antibiotic and 1% L-glutamine. The microplates were left for an additional 24 hours in an incubator.
    After the incubation, the "Extract" composition or TGF-β were added at the desired concentration. The microplates were incubated for an additional 24 hours.
    Collagen XVII was detected and quantified by immunostaining using an anti-collagen XVII antibody diluted 1/100 and revealed by a secondary antibody coupled to fluorescein. The intensity of fluorescence corresponds to the level of expression of collagen XVII. The images were processed by Image J software.
    Results
    The fluorescence measurements were normalized with respect to the measurement of the intensity of the fluorescence measured for the negative control. A + 27% increase in fluorescence intensity is observed for cells incubated with the “Extract” composition, which illustrates an increase in the expression of collagen XVII compared to untreated cells. Incubation with TGF-β (positive control) resulted in a 257% increase in the fluorescence signal compared to the negative control.
    In summary, the extract XAnigozanthos flavidus stimulates the synthesis of collagen XVII by human keratinocytes.
    EXAMPLE 4 Evaluation of the tensor effect of the extract: quantification of the contraction forces generated by fibroblasts from the background of the wrinkle and quantification of the actin aSM
    Thanks to the GlasBox plus ™ system, it is possible to quantify the tightening effect of a cosmetic active ingredient on an “equivalent” dermis obtained from fibroblasts from the bottom of the wrinkle. The fibroblasts from the bottom of the wrinkle develop less contractile forces than those from the surrounding non-wrinkled skin. It is also possible to carry out immunostaining of Γα-SM actin within equivalent dermes after measurements of contractile forces in the GlasBox plus ™ system. The purpose of this study was to show the effect of the Extract on the contractility of fibroblasts and on the synthesis of Γα-SM actin, which is involved in plasticity, migration and cell motility.
    Protocol
    Fibroblast culture
    Biopsies of 2 mm in diameter are performed on a facelift (operational waste; 63-year-old woman) on the non-wrinkled skin and within a wrinkle.
    The classic implantation technique is used to extract fibroblasts from healthy skin (FS) and from the bottom of the wrinkle (FR). The explants are cultured in the medium of Dulbecco's modified Eagle's medium supplemented with 10% fetal calf serum (SVF), 40 mg / 1 gentamicin and 2 mg / 1 fungizone (DMEMc) at 37 ° C, in an atmosphere humid and in the presence of 5% CO2. Gradually (in about ten days), the fibroblasts migrate outside the explants. The culture medium is renewed twice a week. When the fibroblasts are in sufficient quantity, they are detached under the action of trypsin-EDTA, subcultured and amplified under the same culture conditions.
    GlasBoxPlus ™ system and measurement of contractile forces The equivalent dermes develop in a culture dish which consists of eight rectangular tanks. In each of them plunge two flexible blades, the lower parts of which consist of grids on which the equivalent dermis is attached during its polymerization. The equivalent dermis develops between two blades to result in a rectangular shape slightly narrowed in the center. This form in classical mechanics is designated as a diabolo form.
    Under the influence of the contraction forces developed by fibroblasts, the blades become deformed. Their deformation is measured using optical fibers. This deformation is proportional to the force developed within the equivalent dermis. The measurements are carried out in real time using a PC acquisition card and suitable software.
    At confluence, the fibroblasts cultured in a monolayer are trypsinized and then counted using a Mallassez slide to bring the cell suspension to 8.10 5 cells / ml. An equivalent dermal preparation medium is prepared by mixing 6 volumes of 1.76X medium (DMEMc, NaHCO3, NaOH, antibiotics, SVF), 3 volumes of type I rat tail collagen (2 mg / ml) and 1 volume cell suspension (8.105 cells / ml)
    The mixture is poured into the rectangular tanks of the GlasBox plus ™. In a few minutes at 37 ° C, a gel is formed. The various culture media containing the composition “Extract” (final concentration in the medium: 0.1% and 0.2% (V / V)), the TGF βΐ (2.5 ng / ml) (positive control) or free (negative control) are added and the isometric forces are measured for 24 hours.
    A-SM Actine labeling
    The immunostaining of α-SM actin fibers is carried out through the use of a mouse anti-α-SM actin monoclonal antibody. A second anti-mouse antibody coupled to FITC allows the realization and localization of immunostaining. The nuclei were marked with Hoechst dye. The observation was made by confocal microscopy at 488 nm and biphotonic at 705 nm of excitation.
    Equivalent dermal fragments are obtained using a biopsy punch 5 mm in diameter. The equivalent dermes are placed in cold acetone in order to permeabilize them.
    After washing with PBS, a solution of hydrogen peroxide is added in order to eliminate the endogenous peroxidases. After rinsing with PBS, the equivalent dermes are placed in a glycine solution to eliminate the background noises due to the aldehyde groups of the fixative. The equivalent dermes are then placed in a blocking solution making it possible to block the aspecific bonds which would be due to the secondary antibody. Tissues are placed overnight in the primary antibody. After washing with PBS, the secondary antibody is added. After one hour of incubation and washing with PBS, the nuclei are labeled with Hoechst dye for 10 min.
    After rinsing in PBS, the equivalent dermes are mounted between blade and coverslip using Eukitt. The slides are observed under a confocal microscope (Zeiss LSM510 NLO) at x40 magnification and photographs are taken.
    Statistical analyzes
    For the study of contractile forces, a two-factor analysis of variance is carried out, followed if necessary by a Fisher test. Significances are only retained when p <0.05. The areas under the curve (AUC) are calculated as well as the slope (speed of contraction) and the maximum of contraction, all using GraphPad Prism® 5 software. For these data, a one-factor analysis of variance is performed, followed if necessary by a Fisher test. Significances are only retained when p <0.05.
    Results
    The contractile forces developed by background fibroblasts (FR) are significantly less than those developed by healthy fibroblasts (FS). It is observed that the AUC (area under curve of the curve representing the contractile force as a function of time) as well as the maximum of contraction are significantly reduced for the fibroblasts FR compared to the fibroblasts FS (data not shown).
    Incubating fibroblasts with TGFP1 induces a significant increase in AUC and maximum contractile force in both FR and FS fibroblasts.
    Incubation with the composition "Extract" leads to a significant increase in contractile forces in the group of FR fibroblasts: the maximum contractile force and AUC are significantly increased. These results are illustrated in Figures 3A, 3B and 3C. The composition "Extract" also overall increases the contractile forces in FS fibroblasts, but the increase observed is smaller than that obtained for FR fibroblasts. Immunolabelling experiments show that the “Extract” composition stimulates the expression of cc-SM actin by FR fibroblasts (see Figure 4).
    The Anigoz.anlhos flavidus extract significantly and specifically stimulates the contractile forces of fibroblasts from wrinkled skin. It therefore exerts a tightening, lifting effect on mature or aged skin.
    EXAMPLE 5 Examples of cosmetic compositions comprising the Anti-Aging Cream Extract (Cream B) comprising 2% of the “Extract” composition
    Phase INCI Name % in weight AT WaterTetrasodium EDTAChlorophenesinPhenoxyethanol 89.40%0.10%0.30%0.80% B Copolymer of sodium acrylates and lecithin(Lecigel®) 2.00% VS Dicaprylyl carbonateSweet almond oiltocopherol and sunflower extract (Vitapherole®E1000 3.00%2.00%0.20% D PerfumeGlycerin and Anigozanthos flavidus extract("Extract" composition) 0.20%2.00%
    The anti-aging properties of cream B were evaluated in the clinical trial presented in Example 6.
    Anti-aging serum comprising 2% of the “Extract” composition
    Phase INCI Name % in weight AT WaterSodium Phytate and water and alcohol 83.67% (Dermofeel® PA-3) 0.15% Water and Cl 14700Lysolecithin and Sclerotium gum and 0.28% Wanthan and Pullulan gum (Ecogel ™) 2.00% B Isoamyl Laurate (Dermofeel® Sensolv) 1.00% Shea Butter (Lipex® 102) 3.00% Sweet almond oil 3.00% Tocopherol and sunflower extract (Vitapherole®E1000 0.20% VS Glycerin and water and sodium levulinate and Sodium anisate 4.00% Glycerin and Anigozanthos flavidus extract("Extract" composition) 2.50% D Perfume 0.20%
    An anti-aging balm comprising 2% of the “Extract” composition
    Phase INCI Name % in weight AT WaterSodium Phytate and water and alcohol 76.90% (Dermofeel® PA-3) 0.10% Glycerin 5.00% Chlorphenesion 0.30% Phenoxyethanol 0.80% B Copolymer of sodium acrylates and lecithin (Lecigel®) 2.00% VS Shea Butter (Lipex® 102) 5.00% Behenyl alcohol 2.00%
    Isononyl isononanoateGlyceryl Stearate citrate and Polyglyceryl-3sterate and hydrogenated lecithin (Heliofeel ™)Tocopherol and sunflower extract (Vitapherole®E1000 5.00%1.00%0.20% D Glycerin and extract A Anigoz.anthos flavidus("Extract" composition) 1.50% Perfume 0.20%
    EXAMPLE 6 Clinical evaluation of the anti-wrinkle effect of the extract.
    Creams tested:
    Cream B (see Example 5) comprising 2% of the “Extract” composition
    Cream A: Placebo cream having the same composition as cream B except that the 2% of the "Extract" composition has been replaced by 2% of deionized water.
    Protocol:
    A use test of the product Cream A (placebo cream) was carried out in comparison with the product Cream B containing 2% of the composition “Extract”, according to the following protocol:
    blind volunteers were included in the study and divided into two groups according to a randomization list established by a dedicated program:
    Group A receiving cream A: 21 women aged 45 to 69 years (average age: 56.4 years), with all skin types, 57% of which are sensitive skin, from phototypes II to IV. Evaluation of skin parameters by the dermatologist in the area of interest.
    Group B receiving cream B: 21 women aged 46 to 77 years (average age: 60.8 years), with all skin types, 48% of which are sensitive skin, from phototypes II to IV. Evaluation of skin parameters by the dermatologist in the area of interest.
    The product was first applied by volunteers in the laboratory. The following applications were carried out on volunteers, by self-application, at the rate of two applications per day. T + 1h after the first application: Evaluation of the tolerance of the test product by assessment of the skin parameters by the dermatologist in the area of interest after removal of the product. T + 7 days: Evaluation of the tolerance of the product under test by assessment of the skin parameters on the area of interest after 7 days of use (by telephone contact). T + 28 days: Evaluation of the tolerance of the product under test by the dermatologist according to the assessment of the skin parameters after 28 days of testing. Self-assessment by volunteers of the qualities of the product under test using a dedicated questionnaire.
    In addition, an evaluation of the effectiveness of the product vis-à-vis the average depth of crow's feet wrinkles was carried out.
    The efficacy measurements were carried out at TO and T28 (i.e. after 28 days of application of the tested product). The depth of wrinkles was assessed by quantifying the relief of the skin surface using the LILEVIZ Micro ™ system (QUANTIFICARE). LIFEVIZ Micro ™ is a non-contact measurement method based on the projection of structured light onto areas of skin of interest.
    Results
    Cream B was well tolerated during the trial by the patients.
    The skins treated with cream B containing the WAnigozanthos flavidus extract showed a reduction in depth of 10% significantly after 28 days of application in comparison with the skins treated with cream A (placebo cream) (Figure 5) .
    权利要求:
    Claims (13)
    [1" id="c-fr-0001]
    Claims
    1. Cosmetic use of an Anigozanthos flavidus extract as an anti-aging agent.
    [2" id="c-fr-0002]
    2. Cosmetic use of an Anigozanthos flavidus extract according to claim 1, as an anti-wrinkle agent, smoothing, toning, restructuring or reshaping the skin.
    [3" id="c-fr-0003]
    3. Cosmetic use according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the Anigozanthos flavidus extract is present as an active agent in a cosmetic composition intended to prevent, delay and / or treat one or more signs of skin aging.
    [4" id="c-fr-0004]
    4. Cosmetic use according to claim 3, in which the sign or signs of skin aging are chosen from the group consisting of: the appearance of fine lines and / or wrinkles on the skin, in particular on the lips and eyelids, wilting or sagging of the skin, especially around the neck, loss of skin density, loss of skin firmness, loss of skin tone, loss of skin elasticity, loss of contractility of the skin sagging of the skin, alteration of the smooth appearance of the skin, increased roughness of the skin, and alteration of the contour of the face.
    [5" id="c-fr-0005]
    5. Cosmetic use according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the extract of Anigozanthos flavidus is obtained from an aerial part of Anigozanthus flavidus, for example flowers, leaves, stems and combinations thereof.
    [6" id="c-fr-0006]
    6. Cosmetic use according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the extract of Anigozanthos flavidus is obtained by extraction with a polar solvent.
    [7" id="c-fr-0007]
    7. Cosmetic use according to any one of claims 3-6, in which the cosmetic composition further comprises at least one additional cosmetic agent, preferably chosen from the group consisting of vitamins, filters and sunscreens, agents anti-aging, or anti-wrinkle, antioxidants, lifting agents, firming agents, anti-stain agents, anti-redness agents, slimming agents, draining agents, hydrating agents, soothing agents, exfoliating agents or exfoliators, matifying agents, sebum regulating agents, lightening active agents, self-tanning active agents, tanning accelerators and combinations thereof.
    [8" id="c-fr-0008]
    8. Cosmetic use according to any one of claims 3-7, in which the cosmetic composition is chosen from the group consisting of aqueous solutions, hydroalcoholic solutions, oil-in-water (O / W) or water-in emulsions. oil (W / O) or multiple (triple: W / O / W or O / W / O), nanoemulsions, in particular O / W nanoemulsions, the drop size of which is less than 100 nm, aqueous gels, or dispersions of a fatty phase in an aqueous phase using spherules, suspensions, preferably in aqueous or hydroalcoholic media, suspensions of liposomes, powders, lotions, milks, creams, ointments, gels , mousses, and ointments.
    [9" id="c-fr-0009]
    9. Cosmetic use according to any one of claims 3-8 in which the cosmetic composition is chosen from a cosmetic product, a makeup product or a body hygiene product, for example a lotion, a milk, a serum, a aqueous or oily gel, an emulsion, a cream in particular a day cream or a night cream, a gel-cream, a treatment water, an ointment, a balm, a foundation, a spray, an eye shadow, a stick, a lipstick, a gloss, a lip balm, a foam, a deodorant, a nourishing mask, a shower gel, and an exfoliating or exfoliating product.
    [10" id="c-fr-0010]
    10. Cosmetic composition for use in the prevention or treatment of a sign of aging, said composition comprising an extract of Anigozanthos flavidus, in particular as defined in any one of claims 5 and 6 and one or more acceptable excipients pharmaceutically.
    [11" id="c-fr-0011]
    11. Composition for the preparation of a cosmetic composition comprising:
    - From 10% to 50%, preferably from 20% to 40% by weight of an extract of Anigozanthos flavidus,
    - from 50% to 90%, preferably from 60% to 80% by weight of a vehicle, preferably chosen from an aqueous solvent, an organic solvent, preferably a lower alcohol such as ethanol, propanediol, butylene glycol, glycerin or isopropanol, a lipophilic agent and mixtures thereof, and
    5 - optionally, from 0.1 to 30% by weight of an additional excipient acceptable from a cosmetic point of view, preferably chosen from a pH adjusting agent, an antioxidant agent, a preservative agent, a stabilizing agent, a vectorization, a thickening agent, an emulsifier, a hydrophilic or lipophilic gelling agent, a perfume, a mineral or organic oil, and combinations thereof.
    [12" id="c-fr-0012]
    12. Composition for the preparation of a cosmetic composition according to claim 11 comprising:
    - from 20% to 40% by weight of a liquid extract of Anigozanthos flavidus, and
    - from 60% to 80% by weight of glycerol.
    [13" id="c-fr-0013]
    13. A method of preparing a cosmetic composition according to claim 10 comprising mixing the composition defined in claim 11 or 12 with one or more excipients on the cosmetic level and / or with one or more additional active agents with cosmetic effect.
    1/5 i
    * <j m
    that c
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    同族专利:
    公开号 | 公开日
    FR3057462B1|2019-08-09|
    EP3525889B1|2020-12-02|
    JP2019532108A|2019-11-07|
    AU2017345384A1|2019-05-02|
    CN109937031A|2019-06-25|
    WO2018073714A1|2018-04-26|
    EP3525889A1|2019-08-21|
    KR20190088467A|2019-07-26|
    ES2842582T3|2021-07-14|
    引用文献:
    公开号 | 申请日 | 公开日 | 申请人 | 专利标题
    FR3107186A1|2020-02-19|2021-08-20|Claire BIANCHIN|NEW COSMETIC AND / OR DERMATOLOGICAL COMPOSITION WITH OSMOTIC SYNERGY AND RELATED MANUFACTURING PROCESS|NL105195C|1959-07-09|
    FR1358589A|1963-03-07|1964-04-17|P Millier Ets|Further training in angle measuring devices|CN110251443A|2019-07-26|2019-09-20|广州澳希亚实业有限公司|A kind of skin care item anti-aging Essence and its anti-aging skin care product of application|
    CN110384651A|2019-09-05|2019-10-29|广州市华侬化妆品有限公司|It repairs allergic skin and treats the Essence of eczema|
    CN110711165A|2019-11-03|2020-01-21|上海悦目化妆品有限公司|Anti-aging firming beauty cream containing kangaroo paw extract|
    CN110840806A|2019-12-13|2020-02-28|广州市络捷生物科技有限公司|Kangaroo paw extract and preparation method and application thereof|
    KR102360053B1|2021-04-08|2022-02-08|노성균|Fill-up lifting ampoule|
    KR102288538B1|2021-06-08|2021-08-12|주식회사 어헤즈|Cosmetic composition for improving hair and head skin for alleviating hair loss symptoms comprising mineral ingredients and biotics material|
    法律状态:
    2018-02-27| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 2 |
    2018-04-20| PLSC| Publication of the preliminary search report|Effective date: 20180420 |
    2018-10-25| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 3 |
    2019-10-25| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 4 |
    2020-10-26| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 5 |
    2021-10-25| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 6 |
    优先权:
    申请号 | 申请日 | 专利标题
    FR1660038A|FR3057462B1|2016-10-17|2016-10-17|ANIGOZANTHOS FLAVIDUS EXTRACT FOR ITS COSMETIC USE|
    FR1660038|2016-10-17|FR1660038A| FR3057462B1|2016-10-17|2016-10-17|ANIGOZANTHOS FLAVIDUS EXTRACT FOR ITS COSMETIC USE|
    JP2019541897A| JP2019532108A|2016-10-17|2017-10-13|Anigozantos flavidas extract for use in cosmetics|
    ES17794420T| ES2842582T3|2016-10-17|2017-10-13|Anigozanthos Flavidus extract for cosmetic use|
    CN201780063805.2A| CN109937031A|2016-10-17|2017-10-13|Kangaroo pawl extract for beautifying use|
    EP17794420.4A| EP3525889B1|2016-10-17|2017-10-13|Extract of anigozanthos flavidus for cosmetic use|
    PCT/IB2017/056370| WO2018073714A1|2016-10-17|2017-10-13|Extract of anigozanthos flavidus for cosmetic use|
    KR1020197013106A| KR20190088467A|2016-10-17|2017-10-13|An extract of Zanthos flavidus for cosmetic use|
    AU2017345384A| AU2017345384A1|2016-10-17|2017-10-13|Extract of Anigozanthos flavidus for cosmetic use|
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